The Bar Journal

One of the oldest evidence of the Italian Aperitivo experience goes back to Venice.

In the 1300s there were more than 20 “bàcari” surrounding Venice’s Rialto Bridge.  By adding “cicchetti” to an “ombra”, barkeeps would keep people drinking for a bit longer.  Eventually, these wine bars got a rather tawdry reputation and went out of style but with the new era, it started to gain its popularity again.

WHAT ARE “BACARI”?

A “bàcaro” is a traditional Venetian tavern where it is typical to serve wines and Spritz along with small plates and appetizers, called Cicchetti.

WHAT ARE “CICCHETTI”?

Cicchetti are small snacks or side dishes that commonly include tiny sandwiches, olives or other vegetables, boiled eggs, small servings of seafood, meat and vegetable ingredients laid on top of a slice of bread or polenta.

WHAT IS “OMBRA”?

Back in the old days, wine merchants at Piazza San Marco would move their stalls throughout the day to stay out of the sun, in the shadow of the bell tower.  When the shadow moved, the merchant moved too; who would drink warm or spoiled wine?!

And so instead of “go and grab a glass of wine” people started saying “go and grab some shade” …and this is where the word Ombra comes from…

HOW, WHEN AND WHERE THEY ARE EATEN?

HOW – Usually eaten with fingers and toothpicks, consumed by standing up, hanging around the counter.

WHERE – They are displayed in numerous bars, osterie and bàcari that offer them virtually all day long.

WHEN – Cicchetti bars are quite active during the day, as Venetians (and tourists) typically eat cicchetti for lunch, or as afternoon snacks.  Cicchetti are usually accompanied by a small glass of local white wine, which the locals refer to as an “ombra” (shadow).

WHAT ELSE WAS USUALLY SERVED DURING APERITIVO?

It is said that in approx. 1762 John Montagu (4th Earl of Sandwich), asked for meat to be served between slices of bread, to avoid interrupting a gambling game and get his hands dirty.  In 1800, the duchess of Bedford, Anne Mary Stanhope, tired of waiting for the dinner time to eat, decided to enjoy her afternoon tea with some small salted sandwiches: slices of white bread without crust with some butter and cucumber.  The tradition of the “tea sandwich” began in England and in 1850 they started to fill these little sandwiches in a triangular shape with cheese and salami.  Finally, this tradition expanded all around Europe until Italy.

Torino, 1925. In the Mulassano Cafè, in Piazza Castello there was some tasty news.  It looks like the classical English sandwich to munch away with tea, has become a whole new Italian thing: the “tramezzino”!

Its funny name was coined by the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio from the term “intramezzo” in order to emphasize its function of breaking hunger-attacks with appetizing snacks between one meal and the other.

It is in Veneto, however, that “tramezzino” became an institution, especially for the cocktail hour.  In the historical cafés and typical Venetian local, Treviso or Padua, dozens of different types are proudly displayed, overflowing with a rich filling that two slices of soft white bread can hardly hold back.

Ham and mushrooms, tuna and eggs, pork and “radicchio”, tomato and mozzarella, crab meat and lettuce … the combinations of ingredients to stuff the “tramezzino” are countless!

Today, tramezzino has many forms: from the classic triangular shape to the more modern square one, more practical thanks to its softness, the bread can also be rolled up so as to create perfectly stuffed rolls.  White “tramezzino” bread, then, can also be used as a simple base to prepare delicious sandwiches.

Despite its old origins, the Aperitivo didn’t really take off in a big way though, and as we know it today, until the 1920s in Milan. It is mainly a northern Italian tradition and Turin and Milan are, hands-down, the best place for Aperitivo in Italy (and the world!).  This is where the bars are buzzing and the selection of both food and drinks is excellent.  The  trend is catching on in the rest of Italy with  Rome, Florence, even Naples all now have great scenes… Traditionally the snacks will come with drinks Spritzer or a Negroni cocktail.

Salute!